When was the last time you were genuinely wrong?
Seriously, think about it for a second. Did you get into an argument? Was it verbal? Physical, even? And when you found out you were wrong, how did you handle it?
Self-reflection is one of the hardest things someone can do, yet it’s something we’re asked to do constantly. We all had to read Siddhartha in high school, right? You know, that Hermann Hesse novel about the spiritual journey and self-discovery of a man named Siddhartha who essentially gives up everything to seek enlightenment. It’s a common theme asked of us in all religions, not just Buddhism. Remember when God asked Abraham to sacrifice Isaac in the Book of Genesis?
Now, I'm not about to quit my job and leave behind my friends and family for this wine, nor am I sacrificing my hypothetical child. But I need to admit something. I was wrong.
And what was I wrong about? Wine.
At En Primeur in 2024, our second stop of a 40 Chateau sprint was Chateau Cos d'Estournel. The jewel of Saint-Estephe, and a second growth property in the 1855 classification. It was Monday morning, about 9:20am, and I was clueless.
Our first stop was Chateau Montrose, another Saint-Estephe property and a second-growth estate as well. There was about 20 minutes between tasing these two estate’s Grand Cru wines, and my reviews couldn't have been more different.
Chateau Montrose 2023: Very frontward acidity, grips your teeth out. Plenty of soft fruit. More green and more going on than the Dame de Montrose. Going to be delicious. (Critic Scores: James Suckling 99-100, Jeb Dunnuck 97-100, Robert Parker 97-100, The Wine Independent 97-99, Decanter 98, Jane Anson 98, Vinous 96-98)
Chateau Cos d'Estournel 2023: Much leaner and needs significant time in oak to get something. I cannot see this as a top wine. (Critic Scores: JS 98-99, JD 95-97, RP 95-96, TWI 95-97, JA 97, VN 96-98)
As I said, I was clueless. I might as well have called this swill. Now, there is a difference between three possible 100-point scores and zero, but the Cos d'Estournel Grand Vin did not deserve my scorn.
Genuinely, my opinion of the wine did not change even after seeing the scores. I'm typically confident in my ability to taste and evaluate. The problem with this hubris was I lacked context of who and what Cos d'Estournel really is. And that made me reevaluate.
Cos d'Estournel has been owned by Michel Reybier since 2000, and the same technical director, Dominique Arangoits, since 2002. On February 26, I had the chance to meet Dominique, listen to his insights, and taste through eight of their wines, including their Medoc wine, G d’Estournel, and their Cos d'Estournel Blanc.
The estate sits atop two hills, with its closest neighbors being Lafite and Mouton-Rothschild. They’ve identified 20 different soils, and their vines dating back to 1915 are affectionately known as Le Parcelle des Femmes, since it was planted entirely by women during World War I.
In 2008, the winery built an entirely new cellar based on gravity. It is a gentler technique than moves juice and wine without using pressurized pipes. This method limits over-extraction. They don’t mechanically crush the grapes either, instead opting for carbonic maceration, allowing the grapes to crush and ferment themselves under their own weight in tanks.
If I had known any of this, I would have judged the wine differently. Montrose is a gorgeous wine, but it’s a different style. It's big, plush, and juicy with 75% Cabernet Sauvignon. It's deep, full-bodied, and opulent.
I wanted Cos d'Estournel to be Montrose. It simply isn’t, and probably never will be. There's not a lot that is. And that’s okay. That doesn't mean it's bad. It's quite amazing in its own right. I even gave their 2010 a 100-point score! But more importantly, tasting Cos d'Estournel has made me better.
I failed to evaluate the wine for what it was and tried to force it into a box where it didn’t belong. It's a lesson learned. But like anything else, it was my first time. It should be easier the second go around. Or at least I hope it will.
The 2024 vintage has been described as "rock-and-roll" and not in a good way. This isn't Kiss tearing down Nassau Coliseum in 1978. It’s more like Kiss on their Sonic Boom tour in 2010. We'll still get the Detroit Rock City's and the I Was Made for Lovin' You’s, but expect a few Modern Day Delilah's and Russian Roulette's. (Yes, those are both Kiss songs).
I’m heading back to Bordeaux this April. I will be back at Cos d'Estournel. This time, tasting on Monday at 10am. Again, right after Chateau Montrose. Let's see if my journey to enlightenment has helped.
Below are my scores and notes of the eight wines I tasted.
G d'Estournel 2019 - 90
Medoc appellations, owned since 2003, one of the most northern Medox estates. 86% Merlot. "Always ripe enough". Quite light Bordeaux a Clarette style. Still very pretty with 20% new oak. Nice freshness, notes of red currant, red raspberries, licorice, salinity, stoniness.
Pagodes de Cos 2019 - 92
55% CS 36% Merlot 5% Cabernet Franc 4% Petit Verdot. Deeper styled than Medoc property but still light and fresh. 1 year age with 20% new oak. It's quieter. Tighter acid and more tannic grip. Red fruited with an almost sardine or briny quality to it. Little olive greenness and a chalky finish.
Pagodes de Cos 2016 - 92
50% Cab Sauv, 46% Metlot, 0.5% Cab Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. This is easy to drink due to the lack of oak and technique used. This is spicy with red chili flake tones to compliment the red fruit and floral aspects. The nose is starting to develop and give more earthy aromas but the palate is behind. Mushroom, cherry reduction, black raspberry.
Chateau Cos d'Estournel 2016 -94
14 month age in 50% new oak. 76% Cab Sauv, 23% Merlot, 1% Cab Franc. More pronounced, aromatically intense than the Pagodes. Classic chalkiness and richness from a well-aged Bordeaux. It is still quite light but has more horsepower. It's showing really well.
Chateau Cos d'Estournel 2014 - 97
Earthy, unmistakable older Bordeaux nose. Touch of forest with riper fruit, mushroom, fine graphite edge. On the palate it is stony edged with a precise tannin and forgiving acid. Very minerally and showing a well-rounded herbaceousness. Bright, bursting with wild berries on the front of the palate that calms as it reaches the back of your throat. 65CS, 33M, 2CF
Chateau Cos d'Estournel 2012 - 95
There's an incredible grip on this wine that hasn't been matched by other expressions. It is chalky, fine, and elegant. Velvety smooth. Strong core of red fruits and not showing the herbal and age of the 14 or 16 currently. This can keep going and going in the cellar or glass for years.
Chateau Cos d'Estournel 2010 - 100
Woah. This win screamed at my tongue like it's not worthy to taste it. Such ripe, sweet fruit that is incredibly fresh and special. It is an electric shock to the tastebuds. It is long and quick and floats beautifully. Every sip I pick up something new. Red fruit, florals, herbs, black and green tea, minerality. I'm going back and forth as to what I'm enjoying the most. If you want to drink the best this is it.
Chateau Cos d'Estournel Blanc 2020 - 96
Started making in 2005. 66% Sauvignon Blanc, 34 Semillion, 8% sees new oak. Just smells incredibly tangy and acidic but it is gorgeous. Bright, creamy lemon curd, pastry notes. It is incredibly floral, pick a white flower and you probably got it here. Peaches and cream, honeyed, candied citrus, flint.